DPF How do they work? & DPF Removal

Since your DPF filter’s primary function is to direct exhaust fumes away from the vehicle’s engine, its clogging will slow the rate at which these fumes are expelled from the engine. This prevents the engine from operating at its maximum capacity, which will invariably decrease the efficiency with which it uses fuel. Not only will you have to spend more money on petrol, but the accumulation of fumes in your engine can cause significant harm and increase the likelihood of it breaking down.

DPF Removal

Because of the engine’s inability to function at its optimal efficiency level, it cannot produce the same level of power as it would under normal circumstances. The accumulation of exhaust suffocates the engine, which in turn makes the sensation of driving a lesser overall experience for the driver. Because of this, the driver will press harder on the accelerator, resulting in faster fuel consumption and adding to the engine’s suffocation. In addition, the fumes will have a smell, which is another indicator that the DPF filter in your car has been clogged.

The Engine Will Not Start Up

If the engine management unit of your car senses an excessive buildup of soot, the engine may refuse to start. This is done for the protection of the engine, as the igniting process combined with the exhaust gases has the potential to do significant damage. Even if the engine not starting is a major nuisance, it is preferable to having the engine undergo damage that could be fatal.

DPF Regeneration 

Many diesel car drivers do not drive in a manner that permits passive DPF regeneration; consequently, many manufacturers have devised an active regeneration procedure to fight this issue. This happens when the DPF filter has accumulated a specific amount of soot. At this point, the ECU will send a fuel injection into the engine to raise the temperature. If the active regeneration process happens during a short drive, but the engine is turned off before it can be finished, the DPF warning light will illuminate to let you know that the filter is partially clogged with debris.

The question now is, how can you tell if your vehicle’s engine is actively regenerating its DPF? One warning indication to look out for is if the cooling fans on your car operate at a higher capacity than is typical or if the tone of your engine’s sound shifts. When the soot in your engine is being burned away, you may notice that it emits a stench that is both intense and pungent at specific periods. It is also possible that your stop/start function will stop working. If you drive for fifteen minutes at speeds greater than forty miles per hour, the DPF filter in your car should be exposed to enough heat to remove the soot on its own.

If you overlook the apparent indicators that a DPF regeneration is occurring, your filter will become clogged, which will need to be serviced by a professional.

What is the Remapping Stages? 1, 2 & 3

Remapping 101
So when people discuss Engine Remapping & Remapping in general you will here people discuss remap stages, the conversation will go my car is Stage 1 or Stage 2. Now in reality what they mean is you vehicle is configure (Remapped) to run in a selected way using either no modifications (Stage 1) or with modifications (Stage 2 or 3). We explain the basics of these remap stages below:

Remapping Stage 1:

A Stage 1 remap could be a simple economy map to gain more mpg, or more commonly, drivers want it to enhance their car’s performance.

It consists of:

  • Stage 1 Tune
  • The option of various upgrades for air filter panel / induction kit. (but not required)

This file is designed to lift the performance within the manufacturer’s parameters giving more power without major mechanical alterations.

Remapping Stage 2:

This Tune along with supporting mods adds slightly more power but with the added help of cat back exhaust / intercooler and induction kit in any order or combination. To gain the most power, all 3 would need to be used.

It consists of:
Stage 2 Tune
– Induction kit / Cold air intake
– Intercooler
– Exhaust (cat back or sports cat )

This will raise the power nearer to the limit of manufacturer power limits and is still safe to be used.

Remapping Stage 3:

This is much more than just a simple tune; this is where a lot of extra time and customisation of the tune needs to be taken on either a rolling road or dyno road , an initial run or two to see the existing power and health of the vehicle, the small modifications are made to the vehicle and the vehicle conducts another run, this process can take many hours to get it perfect!

The vehicle will require all the parts from Stage 1 & Stage 2 and then additionally the parts below but this is all relevant to how far you wish to push the vehicle.


  • intake kit
  • full exhaust
  • intercooler and hard pipes with silicone couplers

Following a consultation, the further hardware can be discussed for more power.

  • Turbos and supercharger pullies
  • Injectors and fuels pumps with upgraded regulators
  • Camshafts and pullies
  • Exhaust manifolds with or without external waste gates

Additional kit might be

  • Oil coolers and catch cans
  • Water meth injection and or nitrous

Now I hope that gives you a better understanding, if you need more information or advise please drop us a call or a message.